07
Mar 10

the art of teleportation

visa.vitesse

February has ended so it’s become okay to get a little excited about two weeks biking in Vietnam starting the end of March.

Of course, it’s not a bad idea to get a little bit organized too, and one of the things to keep in mind when planning a visit to Vietnam is the necessity of arriving with a valid travel visa.

(I’d insert a snide comment about Communist countries at this point except last month I paid an additional $250 to have my non-Communist Australian visa extended so that there won’t be an unpleasant scene at Immigration when I land in Melbourne on the way home from said Vietnam trip. $250! Visas, it seems, are a great way to extract arbitrary amounts of money from tourists. At $75 the Vietnam visa appears to be a relative bargain.)

dp and I sort of knew a visa was necessary but didn’t do too much about it. March 1 we both had the thought that a glitch in the visa-approval process or delay in the sending and receiving of documents might result in our visas not being ready on time — or worse, our passports in transit limbo the day our flight left. So on March 1 dp came home with printouts of the visa application forms, and on March 2 I placed the forms, a cheque, and both passports in an Express Post envelope alongside a second, self-addressed Express Post envelope, and dropped the package into a mailbox. That would be 2 PM on the 2nd of March.

(Aside: mailing your actual, physical passport to a foreign embassy when you’re already living in a foreign country is a great way to obtain your recommended daily allowance of anxiety and dread.)

At around 9 AM on the 4th of March the motorcyclist/postman dropped off the mail. And in the mail was the self-addressed Express Post envelope containing our passports and visas.

It’s important to note the Embassy of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam is in Canberra, ACT. That means our package made it from the mailbox to the Hobart postal facility, was dispatched to Canberra, was delivered, opened, and processed at the Embassy, and the self-addressed envelope was collected, sorted, returned to Hobart, sorted again and stuffed into our mailbox inside of 44 hours. Alternately, the Australian Post Office has figured out how to teleport mailbags across the country. Either way I’m impressed. And that’s not even taking into account the lightning speed of the embassy staff in getting the visas organized. Aren’t creaking socialist bureaucracies supposed to be ponderous and inefficient?

With the visa situation sorted out I can start obsessing about some other facet of the trip. For example, what’s the minimum amount of physical preparation one can get away with yet still expect to survive the bike rides on the trip?


04
Mar 10

covert operations fail

At the Hobart International Airport (why “International”? I think there must be a weekly mail flight to Auckland or something) there’s this parking spot — just the one — out front of the Virgin Blue arrivals area labelled “Undercover”. I cannot quite imagine how this works. I really wanted to park the Kia there and then, if anyone complained, I’d just put a finger to my lips and stroll away.

covert.operation.fail


18
Feb 10

multicultural tasmania

We had a different kind of Valentine’s Day in Hobart. The weather wasn’t looking too promising so we decided to show Pat the little town of Richmond an hour or so outside of Hobart. We were a little surprised by the crush of cars and people when we arrived, but soon figured out the crowd was there for a Scottish celebration. A Highland dancing exhibition wrapped up as we arrived, and was followed by a pipe band competition.

follow.the.guy.with.the.stick

We hadn’t really worked out that Valentine’s Day happened to coincide with the Chinese New Year celebration until later in the evening. After our Richmond tour Sarah and I wandered over to Salamanca to check out the second apartment we rented to accommodate Roger and then my parents when they showed up. (Our place in Sandy Bay can stretch to fit 3 adults; 6 is clearly out of the question.) It’s a somewhat soulless condominium, but it will suit the purpose just fine. The interesting bit occurred on our way back home. A parking lot off Sandy Bay Road was roped off and there were rows of white plastic chairs arrayed around the entrance of the somewhat upscale Chinese restaurant in the center of the plaza. There were a number of speeches addressed to the small audience in attendance and then a drum ceremony to welcome in the New Year.

drumming.in.the.new.year

I wonder if the fact that this is the Year of the Tiger has any additional resonance in Tasmania, given their nostalgic affection for the belatedly-famous “Tasmanian tiger”, a native marsupial that was hunted into extinction early in the 20th century?

Whatever the reason, it was a colourful display, and not what we’ve come to expect from the very UK-centric customs of this former colony.


05
Dec 09

barnyard shakespeare

Shakespeare’s plays have been performed for over 400 years. Think about that for a moment. It stands to reason there is a diminishing number of ways to breathe new life into these productions. Ian McKellan’s Richard III and Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo+Juliet are just a couple of examples of the lengths one needs to go in order to do anything new with the plays. Tom Stoppard wrote a version of MacBeth specifically for staging in the living room of homes within totalitarian states. Hamlet has been translated into Klingon. You get the picture.

I’m not sure if anyone has thought about the possibilities of non-humanoid Shakespeare. Which plays lend themselves to animal performance? I believe Shakespeare foresaw the problem and with his typically cryptic genius sketched out the solution for the generations that would follow. The key lies in the titles. Here are six of the immortal bard’s plays that would be suitable for barnyard production:

1. Hamlet (duh!)
2. Much Amoo About Nothing
3. Hen-ry V
4. Rameo and Mooliet
5. A Winter’s Tail
6. The Merchant of Venison

I could go on, but I believe I’ve made my point.

Farm animal adaptations of the Great Works could see novelty introduced to productions for decades to come. Add in a little kid-friendly retooling of the basic plots and run the whole shebang through the CGI filters that have already done so much to improve Dickens’s A Christmas Carol and the works of Dr. Seuss and you’ve got box-office GOLD.


04
Dec 09

whiskeys of the world

A moratorium on distilling spirits (legally) in Tasmania was in place from 1830 until 1990, but Bill Lark managed to get the ban overturned in 1992 and he and his partner Liz started a single malt whiskey operation with a boutique bar located by Sullivan’s Pier on the Hobart Waterfront.

The bottles aren’t cheap but they’ll let you taste all four varieties on offer for $10. It’s worth it for the whiskey alone, even if it is a little sharp for my taste, but add in the novelty factor of drinking Tasmanian whiskey and the character of the bar itself and you’ve got yourself a memorable tipple.

tasting.tasmanian.whiskey


01
Dec 09

BYO (burn your own)

In Canberra Robin and Joel (pictured here with dp) took us to dinner at the Kingston Hotel, or the “Kingo” as it’s called by the locals.

It’s a little special in that you buy your meat or fish raw and cook it yourself at a big, central charcoal barbeque. The Kingo supplies various sides like salad and chips, but the self-serve barbie is the main attraction.

We (dp and I) thought this was a fantastic business model for an eatery but unimaginable by fussy Canadian standards of food safety — even before you realize diners are able to carry their pints or glasses of wine with them while they sear their T-bones to perfection over the sizzling grill.


01
Dec 09

the view from our window

Thanks to Vonage and the wonders of VOIP we can continue to use our (604) number in Tasmania. In fact, it’s the closest we have to a home phone number as dp and I opted to limit ourselves to iphones and local vodafone cellular service. There are a bunch of obvious advantages to this arrangement, but one significant DISadvantage is the time zone challenge. Those annoying telemarketing calls that come through on the answering machine at 11 AM? Here they ring our phone at 5 in the morning. This has happened two out of the last three mornings and today I couldn’t get back to sleep after the call.

Every cloud has a silver lining (as — if I do say so myself — the following photo demonstrates most eloquently). I decided to catch the rising sun from our living room window. It was shaping up to be a perfect spring morning and the water off Sandy Bay was as calm as I’ve seen it since we’ve been here.

sandy.bay.at.dawn

I noodled around on the computer until 7 when dp got up, and then we went off to swim in the community pool that’s just around the corner from the apartment. Another infrequent reminder for me of how great the world must be for early risers. It’s a habit (rising early) I might try to cultivate while I’m here, though I have little confidence it will survive our return to FF.


30
Nov 09

spaghetti walla-bolognese

Much of the time it seems Hobart could be a suburb of Vancouver (albeit one where everyone has gone crazy and drives on the wrong side of the road). Sunday in particular, with a cold, driving wind and hard little raindrops stinging your face whenever you were unlucky enough to be outside, felt like a regular, shitty day near the end of November in Vancouver.

But of course we’re in another country on another continent. A little difference struck me on Sunday while dp and I were swimming at the Hobart Aquatic Centre (we chose this indoor activity because of the hard little etc., etc.). There’s a magnificent 50 m pool with a large number of lanes for swimming laps. As is normally the case there are signs at one end to let you know which is for fast swimmers, moderate swimmers, and slowpokes. What is interesting is the protocol requires you to swim along the left-hand lane guides, not the right side as you’d do in a North American pool. This makes total sense given the road rules, but it’s still an odd sight at first. The protocol even applies to walking down the street. On the sidewalk people keep left, and if you’re on an escalator you stand against the left-hand side so the people in a hurry can stride up the steps along the right-hand side.

In one of our first stops at a grocery store in Hobart dp noticed they have a wide variety of raw dog food for sale in the meat aisle, and usually right next to the raw dog food packages you’ll find fresh cuts of Kangaroo and Wallaby meat.

i.would.like.to.call.this.meeting.to.order

This close proximity to the dog food products doesn’t inspire a lot of confidence, but we decided to try a pound of Wallaby mince instead of ground beef in a spaghetti sauce. The result was pretty tasty. In dp’s opinion Wallaby meat has even less flavour than beef, but I could detect a distant gaminess that made it clear the animal that gave its life for our dinner never uttered a moo. Certainly not venison, but definitely not beef.

It does feel strange buying cuts of meat from Australia’s national symbol in the grocery store. It’s like finding premade beaver-burger patties in the frozen food aisle in a Kitsilano Safeway, but not only is Kangaroo easy to find, it’s considerably cheaper than pork or beef. We will have to sample Kangaroo sausages (“Kanga Bangas”) and a Kangaroo roast too before we’re done here.


07
Nov 09

does anyone know where the love of god goes

…when the gales of November come early?

The greenhouse is no more. We never used it much but had thought about putting it into service next Spring to get some of our plants started It was a homely thing but would have been functional enough once the various holes were covered over by tough, clear plastic.

that-shed.jpg

On Thursday a wicked wind storm + lots of rain knocked out our power from about 4 PM to 4 AM on Friday. We sat near the warmth of the gas fireplace in the living room and listened to the wind howl all evening. At one point a few exceptionally-strong gusts shook the whole house I took a walk out to the new feed shed/dog house to make sure it was still intact. No problem there. But when the morning came I walked out the back door to give the dogs a morning run-around and noticed a…problem.

ex-shed.jpg

dp figures a blast of wind tore the structure off the rotten logs that had acted as a foundation, and then wrapped it around our fence. Given that nothing else on the property seems damaged it really does look like the Hand of God came down and made an example of our little greenhouse. Cripes.

flat-shed.jpg

With only a couple of days to go before we leave for Tasmania the challenge will be cutting the aluminum studs and beams into sections so we can hustle the wreckage off to the dump by Tuesday.


05
Sep 09

in praise of horseshit

We’re lucky at the farcical farm to have a large animal that excretes a wheelbarrowful of poop every two days. The poop gets deposited in bins under a large pine tree near the back of the property where time, moisture and a quadrillion worms convert it to black, black soil. We built 8′ x 4′ planter boxes last summer and added composted manure to them in the fall; in May we topped up the boxes with more composted manure and then planted a range of vegetables. The results have exceeded our expectations. The tomato plants in particular seem to be possessed by supernatural forces. Six individual plants, none more than a foot high when they were planted, have spread to cover the box and a lot of the ground around the box and have produced hundreds of tomatoes already.

a.tenth.of.a.tenth

Returning from three weeks away I was amazed at the density of ripe fruit still on the vine, with an even greater number of green tomatoes in the pipeline. At the ends of a couple of the plants there are even fresh flowers, signaling still more growth to come.

On the phone with my father I learned that the plants won’t stop flowering and producing fruit until they run out of a) nutrients, b) water, c) heat or d) sunshine. The first two items aren’t hard to come by, and we’re probably safe from frost for another six weeks, but as the mornings start later and the evenings come earlier every day I guess the days of fresh tomatoes with breakfast, lunch and dinner are coming to a close.